If you crave a bit of Old World architecture after trekking around the Andes for days on end, Las Lajas Sanctuary is a phenomenal feat of engineering with deep historical significance in the region. Arguably the most beautiful church in Colombia, let alone South America, it certainly promises to hold just enough of a sparkle of magic to truly take your breath away.
So why not tumble upon the beauty of La Basílica Santuario Nacional de Nuestra Señora de las Lajas (the National Shrine Basilica of Our Lady of Las Lajas) when you journey across southwestern Colombia near the town of Ipiales? The church might seem more at home nestled somewhere in the European countryside, but the stunning shrine is located less than 7 miles from the Ecuadorian border with Colombia in a canyon beside the Guáitara River.
More locally referred to as El Santuario de Las Lajas or simply Las Lajas, the religious shrine’s historical roots span all the way back to the 18th century, about 200 years before the current structure was erected. Still, its present neo-Gothic style doesn't stop it from looking like something from a picture book set thousands of miles away in a far-off place, not practically hidden in the Colombian wilderness.
Find out more about the secrets and legends of Las Lajas basilica as well as all the information on exactly how to get there below. Did I mention that this wonderland is situated entirely on a bridge? How’s that for some uniqueness?
History, Legends, and Secrets of Las Lajas
Find this little angel in front of Las Lajas.
The origin of Las Lajas dates back to the mid-18th century in the southern Colombian department of Narino, a municipality of Ipiales. According to local legend, a woman and her daughter were out for a walk along the Guáitara River when they got caught out in a terrible rainstorm and sought sanctuary among the canyon’s lajas (slabs).
They were praying for salvation when a vision of the Virgin Mary appeared to them in their moment of need, thus sealing the locale’s fate as a religious pilgrimage site. A shrine of wood and straw was built not too long after that and, about half a century later, a bigger shrine would replace it and be accompanied by the construction of a bridge to connect the two sides of the canyon in 1802.
The modern version of Las Lajas was rebuilt between 1916 and 1949 at the behest of local churchgoers who donated to the effort though it took over 30 years. It was redone in a neo-Gothic style (one of the only churches like this on the entire continent) and currently perches on a 50-m (130 ft) long bridge over the Guáitara River, roughly 100 m (330 ft) from the bottom of the canyon.
In 1952, upon its completion, the shrine was coronated by the Vatican, officially christening it as a Roman Catholic church, and it was dubbed a minor basilica later in 1994. A picnic area and small play area in the valley below have also been added to the church for even better views.
Las Lajas Sanctuary is totally free to visit so wander the inside of the church to get an eyeful of its vaulted, gilded ceilings and breathtaking interior architecture. If you want an extra treat, head toward the back of the sanctuary to see a mural of the Virgin Mary carved into a stone wall behind the altar. Its origins have remained a mystery for decades as no one knows who created it or when. It just unexpectedly appeared in the church one day.
However, just like with the mural’s origins, Las Lajas still conceals several legends and secrets that have added to the shrine’s mystique and draw over the years. Why not find them out for yourself in person?
How to get to Las Lajas
Walking path toward Las Lajas.
Las Lajas makes for a perfect day trip if you’re already in the area or for a nice little pit stop on your way from Colombia crossing into Ecuador or vice versa. Either way, you might want to pencil in this visit between other activities since the church is a bit out of the way otherwise.
The closest major Colombian city in the vicinity would be Popayan while on the other side of the border in Ecuador lies the town of Tulcan. Both are small but have their own perks; Popayan is one of Colombia’s famous pueblos blancos (white towns) constructed with all white buildings. Tulcan, on the other hand, has one of the most beautiful garden cemeteries in the world.
I’d definitely recommend staying in Popayan unless you need to cross the border ASAP, though, since it’s much more scenic than Tulcan and over double the size. Tulcan does sport an international airport, however, so that’s a bonus in case you're traveling by air.
Regardless, it’s about 8 hours from Popayan to Ipiales by bus or car and only about 30 minutes from Tulcan to Ipiales so decide which destination works best for your itinerary. Either way, you’ll need to travel through both Tulcan and Ipiales at some point to cross the border.
From Colombia
The easiest way to get to Las Lajas while in Colombia would be to first arrive in Ipiales but it’s a huge country and the town is nearly 1000 km (600 mi.) away from the capital of Bogota. If you’re following a similar itinerary to ours (we traveled southward from Cartagena to Medellin to Bogota), then you’ll need to connect from Bogota in ideally two separate bus trips unless you’re dead-set on flying (don’t break your pocketbook) or spending almost 24 hours on a bus.*
*The currency in Colombia is the Colombian peso (COP) and the prices below will reflect this.
View of Las Lajas from upper level.
Step One: From Bogota to Popayan
For reasons that I’ve previously covered in other blog posts on my travels through South America, renting a car isn’t an ideal compromise either since the insurance premiums alone might be through the roof and accident rates are high. Instead, we took a 12-hour overnight bus from Bogota to Popayan for the first leg of the trip.
You can buy tickets online or directly from a sales agent at a taquilla (ticket booth) at a Terminal de Transportes de Bogotá (Bogota bus station) starting around $120,000 COP. Bogota has three major bus stations, the north terminal, the south terminal and the Salitre terminal so double-check your departure point. Most buses to Popayan will leave from the Salitre terminal so go there to book your tickets at least a few days in advance.
Depending on the season, you might find buses fully packed as locals also take the opportunity to travel so get your seat while you can. If you don’t speak a lick of Spanish, reserving tickets online might be your best bet as an agent who speaks legible English might be hit or miss. There are two main bus companies operating out of this part of Colombia, Continental Bus and Flota Magdalena, both of which typically leave around 7 PM (19h00) and take up to 14 hours to get you to Popayan. Pack some snacks, a blanket and some entertainment as it’s bound to be a long and bumpy ride.
While I cannot say that the coach buses are overly comfortable, nor the ride not death-defying at some points, we made it in one piece, more or less. The seats recline further back than average buses, you can rest assured that there will be aircon blasting (bring a sweater), and perhaps a movie blaring you awake every couple hours (bring earplugs). There should also be a bathroom on board the bus so it will only stop every few hours to give the driver the chance to stretch his legs so I suggest you do the same when you can.
You can expect to arrive in Popayan by early morning between 8-9 AM (8-9h00) so make sure to grab some breakfast as the cafes open. Popayan is small enough to walk from its bus station (Terminal de Popayan) to your accommodation but you can always grab a taxi parked right outside which should cost you $10,000 COP or less.
Step Two: From Popayan to Ipiales
Guáitara River passing under Las Lajas.
If you plan to continue on the same day like a true trooper, then you had better hurry! Although there are several buses running multiple times daily between Popayan and Ipiales, routes generally start around sunrise and only continue on until about noon (12h00), meaning you’ll miss the last one out of town if you’re not minding the clock once you arrive.
Alternatively, you could spend a day or two wandering about Popayan, a charming town in its own right, or get some rest (fully horizontally) to prepare yourself for the next portion of the trip. It really depends on whether or not you’re pressed for time. Ideally, there’ll be no need to book a seat to Ipiales too early since there are three main bus service providers in the region, Tax Belalcazar, Transipiales and Trans Cootranar.
In fact, you can expect to see a sea of drivers outside the bus station jockeying to get you into their vehicles but, for safety reasons, I would stick to licensed providers, even if they cost a little more. Make sure to price compare, though, as some of their fleets include 8-seat colectivos (minivans) rather than huge coach buses, which are undoubtedly faster yet a tad pricier. The bigger behemoths might have more legroom but they also have a harder time navigating through the winding Andes roads and therefore take a couple of hours longer.
It should cost you between $50-80,000 COP per person for a 6-hour minivan (probably best to reserve in person to haggle price) or $40,000-70,000 COP for an 8-hour coach bus. If you leave Popayan the same day you arrive, you should arrive in Ipiales by sunset depending on the time of year. Ipiales is a safe town compared to the rest of Colombia’s major cities but I wouldn’t recommend visiting Las Lajas at night. Better to stick to an early morning visit to watch the sunrise over the canyon so get to your accommodation via taxi or simply walking since Ipiales is even smaller than your last stop.
From Ipiales, you can grab a taxi to take you straight to Las Lajas’ town a few minutes from Ipiales for around $10,000 COP. Your driver should drop you off not too far from the entrance and you can complete the rest of the journey down on foot. Take in the sights, snap some pictures and then grab another taxi back to Ipiales before nightfall unless you really want to see Las Lajas lit up. I wouldn’t blame you for sticking around!
View of Las Lajas from overlook.
From Ecuador
As previously mentioned, Tulcan is the closest city from which to visit Las Lajas from Ecuador. Realistically, you’ll be coming from Quito, Ecuador’s capital, so I’ll go into further detail on how to get from there and across the border into southern Colombia faster than you can say, vamanos!*
*The currency in Ecuador is the American Dollar (USD) but the currency in Colombia is the Colombia peso (COP) so the prices below will reflect this.
Main path leading toward Las Lajas.
Step One: From Quito to Tulcan
There will be quite a few colectivos (minivans) lined up outside of Quito’s north bus station, Terminal Terrestre de Carcelén. Therefore, don’t be surprised to be accosted by a swarm of drivers trying to entice you into their vehicles for a bargain. For safety concerns, however, I would suggest sticking to a licensed service provider.
There are four main companies that provide transportation between Quito and Tulcan with multiple daily departures; Velotax Norte Cooperative, Cooperativa Expreso Turismo, Imbabura fleet and Cooperativa de Transporte Pullman Carchi. Some of these providers actually offer passage in coach buses rather than minivans for about the same cost, allowing you to weigh speed over comfort. The bigger buses do take longer to make their way through the mountainous terrain but offer more legroom and typically have a bathroom on board compared to the minivans.
Buy your tickets online, over the phone or getting them directly from a sales agent in a taquilla (ticket booth) inside the bus station but it might be easier to buy the tickets online if you don’t speak any Spanish. The journey from Quito to Tulcan via colectivo takes about 5-6 hours and costs between $6-10 USD.
In high season, these routes can run from hourly from 9 AM (9h00) to 3 AM, meaning you can plan either a mid-day to early morning arrival in Tulcan depending on when you plan to cross into Colombia. Tote along some entertainment or some earbuds for the long ride since sometimes drivers are known to blast music or movies to pass the time but, really, can you blame them? Don’t expect frequent stops for a chance to stretch your legs, though, so use the restroom where you can if taking a colectivo.
Your choice of transportation should drop you off at Terminal Terrestre de Tulcan, the only bus station in town. Walk or hire a taxi toward your accommodation if you plan to spend the night in Tulcan before heading into Colombia. If you prefer to cross the border as soon as possible, then you’ll need to grab another ride via taxi or colectivo to Rumichaca but the earlier you go, the better.
Step Two: From Tulcan to Ipiales
Direction sign on the way to Las Lajas.
Crossing the Ecuadorian-Colombian can seem likely a harrowing ordeal, particularly if you’re traveling around peak tourist season. Although regionally it was winter when we crossed the border, there were crowds upon crowds of Venezuelan refugees waiting to do the same on both sides.
Still, the Colombia side runs a bit more efficiently with some travelers reporting waits between 2 hours to 10 hours of standing around on the Ecuadorian side with barely any progress. Make sure to arrive as early as possible to snag a prime stop in line and minimize your wait time since there’s only a single queue in and out of the office.
Crossing the Ecuadorian Border Into Colombia
There are a few very important things you’ll need to consider to make sure everything goes smoothly. First, there are sure to be random locals trying to warn you against bringing your baggage to the office with you, offering for you to leave it with them. Politely ignore their suggestions since you should never willingly be separated from your belongings but they aren’t entirely stretching the truth.
Once you get toward the front of the line, there will be a guard to inform you that you can’t bring your luggage into the office’s cramped space. Only 10-20 people are allowed inside at a time yet no baggage so you’ll have to tag-team it with someone in your travel squad to keep an eye on your possessions at all times. If you’re traveling alone, I’d suggest leaving your baggage as close to the guard as possible (they typically keep a watchful eye on the area anyway) or find a kindred soul in line to lend a helping hand (i.e. look out for other foreigners).
Get a peek this mural by the Ipiales bus terminal.
It took us about 45 minutes to get in and out of the line with our Ecuadorian visa entrance stamps. You’ll be getting a (free) visa exit stamp to indicate that you’ve legally registered to leave the country, a compulsory step before you can continue to Colombia. As soon as you have the exit stamp, tuck your passport away, grab your bags and then head for Puente Rumichaca (Rumichaca Bridge) a few meters away, the last barrier between Ecuador and Colombia.
It was honestly a breeze to get through Colombian immigration compared to the other side of the border but it could have been for a myriad of reasons:
I hold a Canadian passport*
I was dressed like a gringa (in short-shorts and combat boots)
I crossed from Colombia into Ecuador (not the other way around)
It was winter (there were still at least a few thousand people waiting before we got there)
*The real trump card
In a perfect world (and depending on our nationality), you should be able to walk through the massive crowd to the front of the office or find an attendant to inform them of your arrival. It might be hard to see it past the throng but, unlike in Ecuador, there are three distinct lines at this office. Two of them function as “express” lanes, one for Colombians and one for other nationalities, while the last night is specifically for Venezuelans. It took us only about 20-30 minutes to get through our line, though, there sadly wasn't much of a change in the latter queue by the time we left.
Continuing Onto Ipiales
Look out for this town map upon arrival at Las Lajas.
After waiting your turn, get your (free) entrance stamp into Colombia and, with that, you can continue to Ipiales to rest or go right to Las Lajas. Hopefully, you remembered to exchange some cash into Colombian peso but you might still be able to get away with using USD so close to the Ecuadorian border if not. Catch one of the taxis or colectivos anxiously waiting outside the immigration directly to Ipiales for about $10-15,000 COP or $3-5 USD.
If your driver doesn’t accept USD but you don’t have any COP, there’s an ATM at Ipiales' bus station. However, it charges about 14,000 COP ($4 USD) in fees and the exchange rate is generally atrocious. I would highly recommend making an effort to know the precise exchange rate at all times and only exchange cash at reputable establishments after verifying that your teller hasn’t “accidentally” left out some notes (happens more often than not).
From Ipiales, drop your baggage off at your accommodation if you’re planning on spending the night (though I’d suggest staying in Cali, Pastor or Popayan instead) before exploring the rest of Colombia. If you plan to keep heading north toward the major cities, have your ride take you straight to Las Lajas. Fully explore the elegantly-designed church before returning to Ipiales via another taxi to catch a connecting bus elsewhere. Visiting the breathtaking sanctuary is sure to be the highlight of your day!
Final Thoughts
I had to get a snapshot with this beauty!
Stumbling upon Las Las sanctuary is a treat for the eyes to say the least. The gothic paradise is an 18th-century beacon of beauty tucked away in the Colombian tropics that is just waiting to be discovered. Built to commemorate a religious miracle after being funded through local efforts and contributions, the church now stands as a symbol that still holds a lot of cultural significance throughout the region.
Thanks to its considerable influence, Las Lajas draws hundreds of visitors per year, both domestic and foreign. That withstanding, getting there can be a bit of a rocky adventure if you’re not used to making land border crossings or taking long rides on public transport.
Whether you’re traveling down from central Colombia or up through northern Ecuador, you’ll need to either hire a taxi or jump into a colectivo or coach bus to reach Las Lajas from the border. You might as well drop by this gem while passing through the area and if you’re there on a weekend, stay to watch the church be lit up by festive lights come nightfall. You’ll be more than happy that you made the trek!
May you get lost in the wander,
M