Review: National Azulejo Museum

Zoom out. What’s this place all about?
Azulejos, or glazed tiles, are a craft that has long played a role in Portugal’s cultural history. This museum, housed on once-sacred grounds, delves into their rich legacy, wooing visitors by their beautifully ornate patterns.

Sounds lovely. So, what exactly can we expect to see?
There are more than 300 pieces to see here; this is decorative storytelling that traces the evolution of the azulejo from 16th-century handicraft to modern-day showstopper.

Excellent. Does the museum ever host any temporary exhibits, or does it stick to the script?
The permanent collection is the star here, although there are temporary exhibitions that shine the spotlight on works produced during the last quarter of João V. And, with its church, choir, and chapels, the building itself—site of the former Madre de Deus Convent, founded in 1509—is a marvel in its own right.

True! How about the gift shop? Obligatory, inspiring—or skip it?
Worth a peep for tiles and ceramic objects.

Got it. How about the café? Worth a stop, or should we just plan on going elsewhere?
The dining room of the restaurant-cafeteria is adorned with 18th-century tiles. After the cod with corn bread and hazelnut ice cream, enjoy an espresso in the garden.

So, a definite 'yes.' Any advice for the time- or attention-challenged on what to see?
Highlights include the blue, green, yellow, and white azulejo with an armillary sphere—the so called "heaven and earth machine," an astronomical instrument that appears on the Portuguese flag. There's also the must-see Our Lady of Life panel, rumored to have been made by painter Marçal de Matos in the late 16th century.