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Carry on Swimming…

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It’s swimsuit season, ladies and gents! We have had at least 3 days of pure sunshine, which inevitably means that men and women across Britain are stepping out, stripping off, and are glugging Pimm’s as soon at the clock ticks noon. Squinting in the seemingly alien sun, we flip open our cobwebbed deck chairs and allow the rays to pour over our skin. But be careful, people, that breeze can be deceiving.

Broken was I, when I came to the sickening conclusion that a trip abroad couldn’t be squeezed into my overdraft this year. The hope of a holiday is the only reason I’d ever buy a new swimming cozzie, so I would have to make do with what I’ve got. Bits of stringy, chlorine-destroyed, shapeless bits of Lycra flung across my bedroom as I begun digging in my swimsuit/sarong drawer. Yes, it’s dig-able. As all ladies know, one rarely buys swimwear without it disintegrating after one summer’s wear.

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Getting a suntan is the primary objective these days when the sun peers from around the clouds for long enough. Holidays are booked on the premise that it has to be hotter than the average Indian summer and if you spot a cloud, well you might as well have stayed home. Home for me, incidentally, is Blackpool. A place which was coined as a popular seaside resort for Englanders, and still is for those select few even today. Doing a spot of shopping in the town, I stopped to inspect the old-fashioned black and white photographs that line the walls of the entrance to the shopping centre. They showed men, women, children and donkeys having a tickety-boo time on the beach in front of the Tower and the Pier, all wearing swimming gear of the ‘50s and ‘60s.

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Young girls are pictured leap-frogging over each other and posing in true ’50s synchronised swimmer style in corset swimsuits, suits with a halter neck line and costumes with a low cut boy-leg which was popular before the more risqué high leg caught on in the ‘70s and ‘80s. Glamour was a big thing in the 1950s and unfortunately the meaning has become distorted through the rise of the modern glamour model. A lot of old-fashioned swimwear often had a small pleated skirt around the bottom, or a straighter fitted piece that covered the tops of the thighs for the apron or tunic style swimsuit. Both were made with a woman’s modesty in mind, to hide any wobbly bits which she’d rather not reveal.

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Forluna Retro Swimwear

Forluna Retro Swimwear

Demand for one-piece swimsuits now seem to be in decline due to the fact that people want the sun to touch as much as much skin as is legal in the UK. The tankini was the starting point to the ‘bare-all’ movement, which then became trimmed down even more into the bikini. Eventually the string bikini became slightly visible until we’ve reverted back to the one piece, but this time folded it up and cut it into one of those paper snowflakes. This inevitably makes one look like a human jigsaw puzzle piece after an afternoon in the sun.

Victorian Suits

Victorian Suits

So when did swimsuits become so chic? Following the impracticalities of the Victorian designs; a knitted woolen affair which literally sunk out of sight from society, they soon became more minimalist yet remained demure. Popular designer names that boasted beautiful bathing suits in the ‘50s were Jantzen, Cole of California and Catalina which are still manufacturing modern day swimwear today.

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Esther Williams

Esther Williams was an American competitive swimmer, who because of her spectacular skills in the pool, plus the fact that she was particularly easy on the eyes, made it on the big screen as an MGM movie star. She featured in her films wearing embellished swimsuits and flashed her pearly whites as movie goers awed as she splashed in her splendour. Funny that there always seemed to be a pool around… According to Miss Williams, Clark Gable was the first to have called her a mermaid. Get in there, Esther. Her movie roles inspired a range of Esther Williams Swimwear in various ‘50s vintage styles which can be purchased on www.modcloth.com.

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    ModCloth Esther Williams Inspired Swimwear

ModCloth Esther Williams Inspired Swimwear

One company which produces vintage style one-pieces and high waist bikinis is www.forluna.co.uk, who are Britain based specialists in retro swimwear with a motive to bring back the beach belle of the mid 20th century. Another shop includes my already much-loved faux vintage boutique What Katie Did, (www.whatkatiedid.com) who essentially produce lingerie but have their own small range of monochrome swim pieces. By my watch we’ve got about a day and a half left of frolicking about in the sunshine – so let’s get them while it’s hot.

What Katie Did Swimwear

What Katie Did Swimwear

Stephanie Shaw

What Katie Did – Faux Vintage Lingerie

Here at The Holborn, I am pretty sure the gentlemen readers vie for the day when they have made a full transformation into Donald Draper, Creative Director at Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce, advertising titan and all round ‘hunkatron’ – ‘cause let’s be honest – he is not just hot, he’s ‘toasted.’ For us girls, our corresponding Mad Men lady crush would have to be Joan Holloway, the woman of cor’ blimey curves and possibly the only one in the world to make a pea green tweed ensemble look cracking. I could go on for many minutes about Christina Hendricks’ perfect hourglass figure and attempt to emulate it with a girdle and some industrial tape if it wasn’t slightly straying from my point. However, in all her knock-out glory. I am always vexed at how she maintains that enviously brow furrowing figure of hers. My curves are never that smoothly silhouetted, for the attempts I make to keep it sexy always seem to escape out the top of my Bridget pants. Cut the base out of a muffin case and you have the perfect image of a muffin malfunction.

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When researching vintage lingerie and the scary world of girdles, I became engrossed in the glamour that I discovered from What Katie Did (whatkatiedid.com). Oh what wonders that come from the excessive amount of time I spend on the internet – and what a pleasurable discovery it was. One way that I thought to cure me of myself of my current obsession with 1950s was to just get the whole look out of my system. If you can’t beat ‘em, spend a fortune and revel in your sumptuous indulgences. So I made my way towards Portobello Road, a hotspot for tourists, but also the home of a vintage inspired lingerie boutique in the cosy cubby corner of Portobello Green’s small shopping arcade.

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I walked gingerly through the door, as lingerie shopping to me always seems to be an exercise which prods at my self-conscious side. A glamorous woman, in true ardour to that of Dita Von Teese stood behind the counter – long raven black hair half victory curled, eyelinered eyes and a slick of ruby lipstick. After doing the routine ‘poke a few garments’ and ‘move some hangers side to side‘, I launched into my prepared speech that really didn’t sound prepared at all. The woman’s scarlet smile instantly made me feel at ease as I stuttered my reasons for visiting the shop that day.

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Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in the Glamour Underwired Bra

It was Katie Thomas who founded the company, What Katie Did in 1999 and since then it has become one of the world’s leading faux vintage lingerie brands. Inspired by glamour of silver screen movie stars of the ‘40s and ‘50s, the brand has been recognised today by models and film and TV stars alike including Emma Watson, Rosie Huntington-Whitely, Kate Moss, Penelope Cruz, Michelle Williams in My Week With Marilyn and Christina Hendricks herself, of which I give an appreciative nod.

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At the store, the signature style is the Bullet Bra; a curiously conical contraption reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe’s perfect ‘sweater girl’ silhouette – I wasn’t used to the style myself, but who am I to question Miss Monroe’s fashion savvy sense? Heck, we’re still all trying to be her. Marilyn was said to model herself off Marlene Dietrich, a German actress and singer in the 1920s.

Marlene proved to be quite the influential model, for she inspired a range of lingerie that Katie designed – a style of brassiere that moulds the cup shape into a subtle point. Thomas revived this kind of vintage style and her designs have since then appeared in a plethora of  period dramas including Call The Midwife, BBC’s Sherlock, and Miss Marple, as well as appearing in Oscar wining movie, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.

Sets and Slips

After deciphering my curvy credentials, the girl that was helping me disappeared into the back to find my requests and emerged with a satin-stitched selection for me to choose from. When I’d perused the website previously, I’d seen several photo shoots that featured Katie Thomas’s designs in such high fashion magazines as Vogue and Harper‘s Bazaar – the former in which Claudia Schiffer was shot wearing the bullet bra style in midnight blue satin. I don’t need to tell you how fantastic she looked, but in case you wanted reminding I’ll give you a sneaky peek.

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Whilst mid way through my briefing, a familiar face took charge of my custom who I’d seen on the online site to be the manageress, Hannah Barley. She led me into the luxurious fitting room furnished with a velvet chair, side table and fully sized ornate mirror for scrunching my nose at as I observed my flawed bits and pieces. After being offered a beverage and a quick pep talk on how to manoeuvre ones self in this style of shape wear, (lean forward and wriggle about) I began my busty business.

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Usually, trying clothes on is a daunting task that I, before beginning it, cross myself that it doesn’t end in tearing the curtains down and running out the store crying wrapped in them because that’s the only thing that seems to fit. Even though gold-framed photographs of gorgeous (but enviably slim and trim) girls embellished the boutique’s wall of fame, I was encouraged with the mind set that the fifties female figure and indeed the whole sense of the burlesque gave me a metaphorical wink of approval for any extra curves that I carried.

Wall of fame

I left the store feeling delighted with my purchases; their signature Harlow bullet bra in peach satin and one in black from their Maitresse range with matching knicks. It’s not every Monday afternoon that I find myself squeezing into girdles, waist-cinchers and waspies, but maybe I should make a note of doing. Visit the What Katie Did website or take a trip to their Portobello boutique to find your perfect set.

Stephanie Shaw