Botanical Name: Dracaena
Plant Family: Agavaceae (Agave Family)
These popular evergreen foliage plants are found growing at home in tropical countries such as Africa, Madagascar, Upper Guinea and the Canary Islands. The plants genus name, Dracaena, is derived from the Greek word drakaina which means a 'dragon' and alludes to the sap or juice of the stems of Dracaena draco, which was said to resemble dragon's blood. There is also mention that the plant may have been named after Sir Francis Drake.
Generally speaking, they are single stemmed, tree-like foliage plants with mostly narrow, sword-like leaves, green in color, or green with variously colored longitudinal stripes on each leaf. Young dracaena plants naturally have leaves located at the base of the plant, but as the plants mature, they lose their bottom leaves, thus giving the plant a palm-like appearance. It is for this reason they are often called 'False Palms'. Dracaenas rarely flower when they are grown as houseplants, but they do produce red, yellowish or greenish flowers in clusters or panicles when they do flower. Dracaena fragrans and Dracaena goldiana both have very fragrant flowers. These tropical plants can only be grown out of doors in very warm climates (zones 10, 11 etc.)
One commonly grown species of Dracaena which is distinctly different from all the others is D. godseffiana (= D. surculosa) (Gold-dust Dracaena). The species name surculosa means suckering. The plant does not have the long, narrow leaves growing at the top of the stem like that of a palm tree, but rather, a shrubby bush form with wiry stems, smallish 4 - 5 inch long, oval shaped, variegated leaves, irregularly spotted with creamy yellow. These slow growing plants seldom reach 3 feet high at maturity. If the plant blooms, the greenish-yellow fragrant flowers are followed by attractive red berries. Popular cultivars of Dracaena godseffiana include: D.g. 'Kelleri' - spotted creamy leaves; D.g. 'Florida Beauty' - leaves have more cream coloring than green, and D.g. 'Juanita'.
Perhaps the most popular houseplants grown today are the cultivars of Dracaena deremensis (meaning - of Derema, Tanzania). The species has solid green leaves and is not commonly grown. It flowers in panicles, each flower dark red outside, white inside. The plants vary in height, but usually average 3 to 4 feet. Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' has 2 - 3 inch wide, shiny, dark green, strap-like leaves averaging 18 - 24 inches long. D.d. 'Warneckii' has 8 - 12 inch long green leaves with white longitudinal bands near the edge of the leaves. D.d. 'Lemon Lime' is similar to 'Warneckii', but has lime green stripes instead of white. D.d. 'Bausei' - two broad white bands running down the center of the green leaves. D.d. 'Rhoersii' - two thin white lines near the center of the leaf, pale green center, dark green edges. D.d. 'Jumbo' is a more compact form of 'Warneckii'. D.d. 'Yellow Stripe' - solid yellow leaf margins. D.d. 'White Stripe' - solid white leaf margins. D.d. 'Compacta' - a variety of 'Janet Craig' that somewhat resembles a bird nest-like plant, small leaves, approximately 1 foot tall. Other cultivars of Dracaena deremensis include: 'Calypso', 'Compacta Variegata', 'Gold Star', 'Green Stripe', 'Lisa', 'Michiko', 'Sandra Mastella', 'Warneckii Compacta', and 'Yellow Edge'.
Another popular species is Dracaena marginata (referring to the margined leaves) with common names of 'Madagascar Dragon Tree' or 'Red-edge Dracaena'. The plant has a slender trunk with 2 foot long narrow, arching, flat leaves that taper to a point. The predominant green leaves have a red-purple stripe running along the outer edge of the leaf. This dracaena truly resembles a palm tree as its bottom leaves mature and drop, leaving a tuff of green atop the slender stems. The plant can reach a height of 12 feet. Cultivars of Dracaena marginata include: D.m. 'Tricolor' - red leaf edges with white or yellowish stripes running along the green center, giving the plant an overall greenish-gold color; D.m. 'Colorama' - the red stripes on the leaf edges are much wider than those of 'Tricolor', giving the plant a distinct reddish color; others include: D.m. 'Santa Rosa'; D.m. 'Character'; D.m. 'Magenta' and D.m. 'Exotica'.
Another popular species is Dracaena fragrans (Fragrant Dracaena). The species name fragrans refers to the clusters of small, yellow, fragrant flowers. The leaves are solid green in color, graceful, 2 inches wide, 2 feet long, and resemble the leaves of a corn plant. 'Corn Plant' is the common name given to Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (also named 'Massange's Dracaena, after M. de Massange). The dark green, 18 - 30 inch long, 2 - 3 inch wide, broad, recurved leaves have a very noticeable corn colored yellow stripe running down the center of each leaf. The plant averages 6 feet in height. Other cultivars of D. fragrans include: D.f. 'Lindenii' - green centered leaves with creamy-white leaf margins; D.f. 'Rothiana' - thick, leathery, 3 inch wide, 28 to 32 inch long, dark green leaves with a white margin; D.f. 'Victoria' - gold or yellow marginal stripes; D.f. 'Hawaiian Gold'; D.f. 'Character';and D.f. 'Trident'.
'Dragon Tree' is the common name for Dracaena draco. The species name draco means 'a dragon' and refers to the resin (dragon's blood) which exudes from the trunk. The silvery-green leaves which grow in a crowded rosette average 1 ½ to 2 feet long, 1 ½ inches wide, are sword-shaped, and red-edged if the plant is given enough light. It is hard to give an average houseplant height to a plant that will reach 60 feet high in its natural surroundings, but a 4 foot plant is a fairly common size.
For those with small living quarters, Dracaena sanderiana (Sander's dracaena or Ribbon plant) is a good choice. The species is named after Henry Sander, founder of Sander's Nursery. The soft, lax leaves average 7 - 10 inches long, 1 inch wide and are grey-green in color with broad white edges. The plant ranges from 2 - 5 feet in height, but its narrow leaves make it useful in small places. Dracaena sanderiana 'Borinquensis' has a broad white stripe running down the center of each leaf, flanked by a pair of narrow white stripes and green leaf edges.
Dracaena reflexa (formerly Pleomele reflexa) gets its species name from the reflexed flowers (inflorescence), meaning they are turned or bent backwards. The plant has weak stems and often requires a rigid support to keep it from sprawling. If warm temperatures and very moist, humid air can not be provided, the plant will drop its leaves and stop growing. The species is seldom found, but Dracaena reflexa 'Variegata' (known as 'Song of India') is fairly common. It has 6 inch long, yellow edged leaves, and can reach a height of 10 feet. It is not an easy plant to grow, and over-watering will cause the leaves to turn yellow and eventually drop. D. r. 'Angustifolia Honoriae' is another cultivar.
Dracaena goldieana (named after the Rev. Hugh Goldie, an American missionary in West Africa in the 19th century) has large, 10 inch long, light green leaves that are banded and marbled with dark green and silver-grey coloring. Dracaena hookeriana (named after Hooker), forms a trunk and has narrow green leaves that average 24 - 30 inches long. Both D.h. 'Latifolia' and D.h. 'Variegata' have variegated leaves.
One other commonly grown houseplant that is often called a dracaena, but is NOT, is Cordyline terminalis. The plant is often sold under the names Dracaena terminalis or Cordyline fruticosa. The plant has many common names including Ti plant, Polynesian Ti, Goodluck Plant and Red Dracaena. The genus name Cordyline is from the Greek word kordyle (a club) and refers to the large, fleshy roots of some species. The species name terminalis means 'terminal' and refers to the inflorescence (flowers). Cordyline also belongs to the Agavaceae family. There are two easy ways to differentiate between the genera, and that is by examining the roots and leaves of the plant. The genus Dracaena has smooth-surfaced, orange or deep yellow colored rootstocks (inner tissue) that do not creep, whereas, the genus Cordyline has knobbly, white colored, creeping rootstocks. Plants in the genus Cordyline have leaf petioles (stalks on the leaf that joins the leaf to the stem), like the leaves of an African violet, whereas, the leaves of plants in the Dracaena genus do not have leaf petioles - like a spider plant leaf, for example.
Cordyline terminalis (Ti Plant) has 1 foot long, plain green leaves. It is the leaves of this plant that are used in making the famous 'hula skirts' in Hawaii. The plant often grows 6 to 8 feet tall. There are many cultivars of C. terminalis, which have very brightly colored leaves. Popular ones include: C.t. 'Firebrand' - bronzy colored; C.t. 'Amabilis' - green, rose and white; C.t. 'Prince Albert' - green and red; C.t. 'Baptistii' - striped with green, yellow and pink; C.t 'Red-edge' - green leaves streaked with red; C.t. 'Tricolor' - 1 foot long leaves blotched with cream, pink and red; C.t. 'Kiwi' - stripes of light green, dark green, cream and pink; C.t. 'Bicolor' - pink and green leaves. Others: 'Baby Doll', 'Baby Pink', 'Bangkok Gold', 'Black Magic', 'Bolero', 'Bronze', 'Calypso Queen', 'Cameroon', 'Eugene Andre', 'Global', 'Kilimanjaro', 'Nagi', 'Purple', 'Red', 'Red Emerald', 'Red Sister', 'Red Star', 'Rojo' (red), 'Rosebud', 'Schubertii', 'Tango', 'Tequesta', 'Tiffany', 'White Baby Doll' and 'Xerox'.
Other species of Cordyline are C.stricta (also called C. congesta) - a slender stemmed plant with narrow (1- 1 ½ in. wide) green leaves, averaging 16 - 30 inches in length - the plant often producing panicles of light blue flowers. Mature plants can reach 10 feet in height. C. australis (Grass Palm, Cabbage Plant) - green, narrow, arching leaves, 1 ¼ inches wide, 20 - 30 inches long, grow in a rosette about the trunk of the plant. C. australis 'Veitchii' - both the leaf base and mid-rib of each leaf is bright red. C. indivisa - 2 - 4 inch wide, 4 foot long, thick, leathery leaves with orange colored veins and mid-rid, and C. indivisa 'Cuprea' which has coppery-red leaves.
CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS
The cultural requirements of both genera are basically the same. Both need warmth and high humidity, but it is essential that Cordyline be provided with very high humidity - at least 60%. Dracaena godseffiana can withstand drier air and lower winter temperatures than all the others. Dracaena marginata, Dracaena draco and Cordyline australis are relatively easy to care for in that they will grow in dimmer light and can withstand somewhat cooler winter temperatures.
LIGHT
Provide a location with bright, indirect light, such as an east or west window, or a curtain-filtered south window. Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' does well in low light levels of 100 to 150 foot candles - in direct sunlight its leaves will scorch (as will most dracaena). D. fragrans will survive in low light (50 foot candles), but flourishes in filtered sunlight - in direct sun its leaves will turn brown and dry out. D. d. 'Janet Craig' grows best in filtered sunlight. A lack of magnesium in the soil coupled with low light can result in yellow spotting on the leaves of 'Janet Craig' dracaena. To rectify the problem, soak the potting soil with a solution of water and Epsom salts (1 tablespoon of salt to a gallon of water) and move it immediately to a brighter location. D. terminalis must have bright light. In general, if only artificial light can be provided (no windows), ensure that dracaena species receive at least 400 foot candles of light for 8 to 12 hours daily. Cordyline terminalis can be given 4 to 6 hours of direct sun daily to maintain its rich colors, or otherwise, it must be provided with at least 800 foot candles of artificial light for at least 12 hours per day. Plants that are receiving too much direct sun will often develop dry, bleached patches on the leaves. Brown leaf tips and edges can be a result of too little light.
TEMPERATURE
Both genera need warmth. Night temperatures of 65 - 70° F and daytime temperatures of 75 to 85° F are ideal. Those that will tolerate a bit cooler temperatures have been previously mentioned. Leaves will become soft and curled and develop brown edges if temperatures are too cold. Consistently cold temperatures can cause stem and root rot and death of the plant, especially if the plant is being over-watered.
WATERING
It is important to keep the potting media of most species moist at all times. Thoroughly soak the media when watering the plant by watering from the top of the pot until water runs out of the drainage holes in the pot. Use tepid, fluoride free water. This method of watering leaches out excess salts that can build up in the soil and harm the plants roots and leaves. Never let the pot sit in the excess drainage water - soggy wet soil can cause root rot and other problems. The plant should not be watered again until the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch. A soil that is constantly wet on the surface is an indication that the plant is being over-watered. On the other hand, it is very important that the soil-ball does not dry out completely - this is fatal to some species. Symptoms of dryness at the roots include: brown tips and yellow edges on the leaves; brown, crisp spots on the foliage; wilting leaves, and lower leaves that dry up and fall off.
Over-watering associated with cold temperatures is a main cause of plant death. The easiest way to prevent over-watering is to ensure the plant is potted in a well-drained media. Soft, dark brown spots or patches on the leaves; curling and falling leaves; several leaves turning yellow at the same time and falling; wilting leaves, and rotting stems and leaves are symptoms of over-watering. A plant that is growing very slowly or is not growing at all during the growing season (not the dormant period) is often suffering from over-watering or water-logged soil. One species that should be allowed to become quite dry before watering is D. fragrans. If it is over-watered, the canes are likely to rot. It should be noted that water with high levels of fluoride can cause tip burn on Dracaena leaves. Adding ground limestone (calcium) to the media raises the soils pH (should be near 6.5 - 7.0) which reduces tip burn caused by fluoride build up in the media.
HUMIDITY
Provide Dracaena spp. and Cordyline spp. with a humid environment. Misting, pebble trays with water, moist sphagnum moss placed around the pot, grouping plants together, or installing a humidifier are means of providing a humid environment for these plants. The usual symptoms caused by dry air are leaves with brown tips and yellow edges. Cold and hot drafts produce similar effects, as does under-watering, or leaf tips touching cold window panes. Dracaena draco and Dracaena godseffiana will tolerate drier air.
MEDIA AND FEEDING
Any general purpose potting media is fine, as long as it drains freely. It may be necessary to add some perlite to the media to improve drainage. If the media does not have any fertilizer added to it, a good practice is to add a tablespoonful of ground limestone, 2 tablespoons of bonemeal and 2 teaspoons of 5-10-5 fertilizer to a gallon of the media, and thoroughly mix it in.
Repotting is generally only required every 2 years, but if the plant is overcrowded or pot-bound, it should be repotted into a one size larger container as soon as the condition occurs. They can be repotted at any time of the year.
Feed Dracaena plants once every 5 or 6 months, and Cordyline once every 3 or 4 months with any well-balanced plant food (examples: 15-30-15, 20-20-20-, 5-10-5). (The time given is only on average. If the plant is doing fine, do not feed it. If the plant appears to be growing slowly, the new leaves appear smaller than usual, or the plant is rather pale in color, it may need some fertilizer a bit sooner. There is never a set time for fertilizing or watering a plant - it should be fertilized or watered when it needs it). Follow the instructions on the fertilizer labels carefully, and if anything, cut back a bit. Over-fertilizing a plant does far greater damage than under-fertilizing it. Never fertilize a plant when the soil is on the dry side, or while the plant is dormant. It is usually a good practice to resist feeding a newly purchased plant for several months, as most plants have been adequately fertilized before leaving the greenhouse or nursery.
GROOMING
Keep the leaves clean on your houseplants. Use a feather duster to remove dust, or wash the plants with a mild detergent and water solution. Rinse the leaves with tepid water. Regular cleaning not only keeps the plant healthy, but also helps prevent insects from getting a foothold. The main ones to watch for are spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and thrips. The best natural control is maintaining a humid environment and providing sanitary conditions. If chemicals are required for insect control, use those that are registered for use on dracaena plants. Most garden supply centers, shopping malls and hardware stores handle these products. Watch for Leaf spot disease and Anthracnose on some species, and stem or root rot on all species. Remove dead leaves and trim off brown or dead leaf edges and tips with a pair of sharp scissors. Cut back into the healthy leaf tissue when trimming the leaf and follow the natural contour of the leaf.
PROPAGATION
Both genera can be propagated from stem-tip, stem, or cane cuttings, and air-layering. If basal shoots are produced at the base of a plant, these can also be used to propagate new plants. D. reflexa can be propagated by division. For full instructions on how to air-layer a plant, see PROPAGATION PART 2. Rooting a stem-tip cutting is almost the same as air-layering a plant, the only difference is that the stem-tip (usually the top foot or so with larger plants) is cut completely off the top of the plant. Then, 4 inches of leaves are stripped off the bottom end of the stem-tip cutting, and the bottom end of the cutting is then inserted in a moist rooting medium like sand or vermiculite until roots have formed. The cutting is kept moist, warm and out of direct sunlight. Once it is well rooted, it is carefully taken out of the rooting media and potted up in a well-drained potting media. Cane cuttings are usually made after a plant has been air-layered, or after the stem-tip has been removed to make a cutting. A portion of stem can be cut off the top part of the original stem (after the stem-tip has been removed) to make the cane cuttings. The stub, or cane of the original plant (the part that remains in the pot) will put out new shoots directly below the cut (usually several shoots) and continue to grow. The piece of remaining cane is then stripped of all leaves and cut into pieces about 4 to 6 inches long. These pieces are then laid horizontally on top of a moist rooting medium and half buried (you will see ½ inch of a 1 inch thick cane above the media after it is buried, for example). The pieces should be laid on the rooting media so that as many nodes (little green bumps on the cane) as possible are located on the top half of the cane, exposed to the light. The media must be kept moist, not wet. Once the little shoots are two inches tall, they are cut off the piece of cane (with a little piece of the old cane still attached) and inserted in a rooting media to form their own roots. Once they are well rooted, they are repotted in a well-drained potting media. Alternatively, stand a 10 inch piece of the cane or stem vertically in moist media and start a Ti Tree.
A good site to find nursery information on the plants listed in this article as well as many other is: www.fnga.org/locator/SearchPlants.asp.
